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Too little light and plants melt; too much and algae takes over before shrimp can graze it down. Enter your light setting and tank size below to see whether you are in low, medium or high light territory, which plants fit, and how to adjust without stressing shrimp.
Plants by light level for shrimp tanks
| Light level | Example plants | Notes for shrimp keepers |
|---|---|---|
| Low | Java fern, Anubias, Java moss, Bucephalandra | Best for beginners; 6–8 h per day, almost no algae risk |
| Medium | Cryptocoryne, Vallisneria, Bacopa, dwarf sagittaria | Needs root tabs or light liquid fertilizer at shrimp-safe doses |
| High | Rotala, Ludwigia, Monte Carlo, pearl weed | Needs rich substrate and balanced nutrients; watch for hair algae |
Keep the photoperiod at 6–8 hours with a timer. If you inject CO2, keep it gentle — a slow bubble rate with a drop checker in the green, strong surface agitation at night, and stable pH. Liquid carbon products can harm shrimp and sensitive plants at full dose, so under-dose or skip them in breeding tanks.
FAQ
Is CO2 safe for shrimp?
Gentle pressurized CO2 with good oxygen exchange is tolerated by most colonies, but DIY yeast CO2 swings and can suffocate shrimp overnight. When in doubt, grow low-light plants without CO2.
Why do my plants melt but algae grows?
Usually new-tank transition plus too much light for too few plants. Dim the light, add more fast growers, and give crypts and ferns 2–3 weeks to settle.
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